Discover Orkney - My Top Highlights
Yesnaby
Dear Diary,
Let’s tackle another island from my Scottish Island scratch map.
This time, I wanted to go somewhere high up north. And as I have already been on Shetland, the decision fell on Orkney.
The Orkneys
I’d say Orkney is a much-underrated destination. I immediately got enchanted by its rough landscape and would happily go back for a second time.
You can easily get there within an hour by plane from Edinburgh or take the ferry from Aberdeen or John O’Groats.
Orkney has a very long history, the first evidence of human activity dates back 9000 years, from soon after the first ice age. And since then, humans have left their marks all across the island.
In total, Orkney consists of about 70 scattered islands, though two-thirds are uninhabited. It offers visitors stunning scenery, breathtaking cliffs, ancient stone circles and prehistoric villages, all surrounded by the (sometimes very stormy) sea.
The saying that you can experience all four seasons within one day, is much true about Orkney. We were lucky and the weather was mostly dry, though windy with the occasional sunshine, a bit of everything.
There’s so much to discover on the mainland alone, I didn’t even make it to any other island. And as I’m a keen hiker, I equipped myself with the Orkney - 40 Coast and Country Walks guide ahead of the journey.
So here come my Orkney travel highlights.
Top 5 Places to Visit
1) Borough of Birsay
The Borough of Birsey is a wee tidal island reachable by a causeway. Its location with incredible landscape and views is really worth a visit.
The island hosts remains of a Pictish and Norse settlement, a lighthouse built in 1925 by David A. Stevenson (a cousin of Robert Luis Stevenson) and is also home to a great number of seabirds. So take your binoculars.
We got lucky and spotted some puffins!
The island is only accessible within two hours on either side of low tide, make sure to check the times before heading out.
2) Yesnaby Cliffs
This is another stunning coastal walk from Yesnaby to Neban point. You can see Orkney’s most impressive stretches of seacliffs with two spectacular rock stacks in the middle of the ocean.
Weather permitting, you can also get a glimpse of the Old Man of Hoy in the distance.
The rock stacks are not only impressive to look at but were also featured as a location in an advertising campaign for a Rover saloon, which was lifted on the actual stack by helicopter in 1994.
3) Sands of Evie
If you’re looking for a Caribbean-style beach, head to the Sands of Evie within Aikerness Bay.
There you’ll find golden sand and turquoise water, a really beautiful and peaceful place to recharge.
4) Ring of Brodgar & Standing Stones of Stenness
Take a nice and easy walk among the enigmatic stones of Brodgar and Stenness.
The Ring of Brodgar is 104 metres wide and 27 of the original 60 megaliths of Brodgar have survived.
The Stenness Stones, on the other hand, date back to 3100BC, making it one of the oldest circles in Britain, even older than Stonehenge.
Those circles are truly magical. I tried touching them in a good Outlander manner, but unfortunately, nothing happened …
5) Stromness
Stromness is the second-most populous town on Orkney and I much prefer it to the capital Kirkwall.
You can stroll around in the old town lanes with its stone houses either side. Stop by in one of the many little art shops or take a walk alongside Warebeth Beach.
Distillery Tour: Kirkjuvagr Gin
The Kirkjuvagr Distillery Tour is a true highlight for all Gin lovers.
You’ll get plenty of information on the history of gin and of course, the opportunity to try their four different spirits.
I was quite surprised to learn that the whole distillation process only takes around 9 hours.
Big win, a free G&T at the end of the tour is also included!
Restaurant Tip: Adam’s Place
When you’re in Stromness, you have to pay this new seafood and steak bistro located at the harbour a visit. Pre-booking is recommended.
I had a delicious crab pasta and a refreshing mango panna cotta with coconut ice cream.
In case you’re looking for luxurious and cosy self-catering accommodation on Orkney, I can highly recommend The Hen Hoose near Dounby.